Is Iran an ungrateful nation?
On December 2, 2025, I flew to Tehran, Iran, for a tourism trip with two friends. We took a five-hour flight from Islamabad to Tehran. Upon arriving at Tehran Airport, we exchanged some dollars for Iranian rials and took a taxi to the city center.
At the Tehran Grand Bazaar, I experienced a different side of Iran. I learned that the country has been under the control of the Islamic clergy since the revolution in 1979. The people of Iran have been compelled by the clergy to follow a strict Islamic code of conduct, which includes wearing veils in public, a ban on music in taxis and shops, restrictions on the sale and consumption of marijuana, and limited freedom of movement.
I was informed that the clergy has hindered the economic, social, and cultural well-being of the people. Iran suffers from unpaved roads and inadequate infrastructure. Cleanliness is lacking, food is often unhygienic, and homelessness is widespread. Many people are dying from famine and the effects of war.
With a very pessimistic mindset, I arrived in Tehran, and I was shocked. My entire perception of the country changed drastically once I began comparing my experiences in Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic to those in Iran. I would be dishonest if I compared Iran to my own country, Pakistan. During my first two days in Tehran, I realized a universal truth: much of what we hear and see in the media is misleading and often untrue. I discovered a vibrant country where the standard of living, well-being, infrastructure, and culture surpassed those of many modern economies.
After experiencing the wonders of Tehran, I decided to explore other major cities in Iran. We traveled to Qom, which is just a 150-kilometer drive away. I discovered that there are various transportation options available for traveling within Iran. In Europe and in my own country, tourists are often advised to use buses or trains for intercity travel due to their affordability. However, in Iran, I found that using Snapp, an Uber-like service, was the most cost-effective way to get around. Our trip from Tehran to Qom, covering 150 kilometers, cost us 1,000 tomans, which is equivalent to 10 million Iranian rials or about 9.15 USD.
Qom is a religious city known for the Shrine of Fatima Masumeh, the sister of the Shia's eighth Imam, Ali al-Rida. Every day, pilgrims from all over the world flock to Qom to pay their respects to Lady Fatima. The city also boasts several other tourist destinations, including Jamkaran Masjid, Mamak Lake, and the Prophet Khezr Mosque.
Qom is famous for its sweet shops and traditional food. The hostels in the city offer excellent accommodations at reasonable prices; for instance, we booked a three-bedroom for just USD 14 per night. The people in Qom are respectful and treat visitors with kindness, reflecting their long history and the deep-rooted faith that inspires them to honor the pilgrims who bring blessings with them.
The markets in Isfahan transport you back in time. The market surrounding the Chehel Sotoon Palace is extensive. It reflects the rich history of Islamic civilization, as well as the history of Persia, dating back even before the arrival of Islam. The shops are filled with gold, saffron, pistachios, dates, baklava, the famous Poolaki of Isfahan, and exquisite rugs. The aroma of freshly baked goods in the morning and the scent of perfumes are captivating. They serve Beryani, Kebab Mashti, and Gaz, as well as various hookah tobaccos.
The city offers attractions such as the Si-o-Pol Bridge, Khajoo Bridge, Vank Cathedral, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Hasht Behesht Palace, and the Fire Temple of Isfahan. Unlike those in Qom, the people of Isfahan speak fluent English and have a more secular outlook. The roads and markets are clean; however, I noticed people of all ages smoking cigarettes, which they referred to as cigars.
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran
On December 10, we arrived in Shiraz province, Iran. We stayed at the Nomad Hostel, which was run by two women. The hostel is in a neighborhood where houses are made of mud, showcasing the unique architecture. Nomad Hostel boasts a large garden, a music area, pomegranate trees, and a pool. Guests from all around the world were staying there.
Shiraz is one of the largest provinces in Iran, known for its underground restaurants that offer delicious Persian cuisine and fresh salads. The city is home to the Tomb of Hafez and the Mausoleum of Saadi, two of Persia's most famous poets. Additionally, it features the ruins of Persepolis, dating back to the 518 BC Achaemenid Empire, where the tomb of Artaxerxes III is located.
During our stay, we were fortunate enough to witness rain in Shiraz for the first time in nine months, which brought a drastic change in weather—it turned cold and chilly. At the hostel, we collaborated with friends from both Chinese and Iranian backgrounds in the kitchen, cooking various dishes and engaging in enlightening conversations about Iran's politics, history, culture, and economy.
We took a 15-hour bus ride from Shiraz to Mashhad. In Mashhad, we stayed at Vali Residency, which is a house converted into a hostel. It was run by Mr. Vali, who maintained a traditional atmosphere and offered various residential facilities.
Mashhad is a religious city, home to the shrine of Imam al-Reza, one of the largest shrines dedicated to Shia Imams. On our second day there, it snowed for the rest of our days in Mashhad.
While in Mashhad, we explored the city using local transportation. The tickets cost less than 50 cents. The shops, markets, food, and infrastructure were similar to those of Isfahan and Shiraz. I noticed that women-owned businesses were participating on equal footing with their male counterparts.
Before leaving for Iraq, we spent a whole week in Tehran. We used the metro to travel around the city, visiting various attractions like the Tajrish Traditional Bazaar, Madam-Kitab, Azadi Tower, Golestan Palace, Tehran Grand Bazaar, and Milad Tower. Tehran has a unique vibe, especially when coming from countries like Pakistan and India. The people are civilized, and the food, transportation, and markets are clean, vibrant, and traditional.
One thing that fascinated me about Iran was that the people there seemed to live a life many around the world dream of. The locals I met shared that their government provides them with a ration card, which they can use for a month. This card includes subsidized electricity, gas, petroleum, and groceries. Public transport is almost free, and the roads are clean. Women can travel safely at any time of day, and there is a noticeable lack of policing on the streets.
However, when we left Tehran on December 27 and reached Iraq, we heard news of protests against inflation in Iran. I found myself wondering who was behind these protests and what more people wanted from their government. I struggled to understand the reasons behind the recent violent protests in Iran. I appreciate it if I could find the answer or correct me if I've misunderstood the feelings of the people.
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